Wednesday, January 12, 2011

The ancient religious capital of Myanmar - Bagan



Bagan, the ancient capital of several kingdoms of Myanmar, formerly spelled as Pagan was the historical city in Mandalay District. It is situated at the east bank of Ayeyarwady River, 140 km south west of Mandalay, 1 hr 20 mins flight from Yangong. Bagan was made into a religious and cultural center after King Anawrahta conquered Mon Capital Thaton and brought back Tripitaka Pali scriptures followed by Buddhist Monks and craftsmen in 874 AD. Theravada Buddhism was made as state religion by 12th century but declined as a political center when sacked by Mongols.



Ruins of Bagan covers an area of 16 sq miles, majority built within 11th to 13th century. At one time, there were 13,000 religious structure like temples and pagoda in Bagan. Since then the city gained the name as exquisite ruins but today it remains about 3000 pieces and only about 20 are opened to visit. Bagan was not eligible to be included into UNESCO site mainly because many ancient stupa, temples and buildings after 1975's earthquake, had been carelessly restored with modern materials which has no resemblance similarity to its original designs and architectural styles. The set up of golf course, 200ft watch-over and construction of highway also greatly affected its application.



Climb up the 180 ft high Gawdawpalin Temple to have a panorama view of Ayeyarwady Plain . Gawdawpalin Temple was built by King Narapatisithu and completed by his son Htilominlo at 11th century. It was the largest temple complex in Bagan and had double stories with Buddha Images placed at 4 sides. The fine and strong red brick work was impressive.



Red brick of Myanmar which are the main material in building structures in olden time stands a key position in construction of all ancient religious complex.



Whole space was thickly studded with pagodas of all sizes and shapes.



Dhamma Yazika Pagoda is located at Pwasaw Village, east of Bagan. It was famous for its circular design and the Terra Cotta tiles at the 3 terraces.



The Pagoda was built with red bricks by King Narapatisithu in 1196.



Dhamma Yazika Pagoda







Mingelazedi Pagoda with its full sets of glazed Terra Cotta tiles, was built in 1284 during the reign of King Narathihapate. There are layers of terraces leading up to the large conical Stupa.



The stair steps were rather steep and narrow, I cautiously stepped out foot by foot with tension and finally went through all layers of terraces up to the round dome of Mingelazedi Pagoda to have this wonderful panorama view of Bagan Plains.



At top terrace to have panoramic view of surrounding sight.



The four direction views from Mingelazedi Pagoda.



To visit the wide area of Bagan's exquisite sites of ruins, one of the best way is their traditional vehicle, Oxcart or horse cart.



Fascinating sunset taken from the top terrace of Mingelazedi Pagoda.









Ananda Temple built by King Kyanzittha in 1090, is the most surviving masterpiece of Mon architect, the finest and best preserved in Bagan.



Ananda Temple is a piece of architectural wonder in fusion of Mon and adopted Indian style with two corridors running around the central block with 3 tiers of arched niches in their walls.



The 4 huge Buddha Images in the standing position in arched recesses on each side of a square central block, housed by Ananda Temple.



There are 80 reliefs depicting the life of Buddha from his birth to his enlightenment in the Temple. Ananda Temple also suffered damages during the earthquake in 1975 but had been fully restored.



Manuhar Pagoda was one of the oldest temple, built by King Manuhar from Thaton. He sold a piece of his jewelry for a fabulous sum and constructed a shrine to indicate himself as a prisoner-of-war.



Huge images of the Buddha was installed inside a low and narrow building, clearly conveying a sense of confinement and anger. Claimed to be the biggest Alms bowl in purpose of receiving public donations.



The murals and some inscriptions on the wall of the temple.



Temple of Dhamma Yangyi which means Light of Buddha's teaching, was the largest and widest temple in Bagan. It was constructed by King Narathu (1167-1170) to atone his sins as he assassinated his father and elder brother to get the throne.



The temple was noted for its massiveness. Though it was not fully completed but it displayed the finest brickwork



Gubyankgyi Temple with a spire resembling Mahabodhi Temple at Bodhi Gaya in India, was a 13th century temple known for its wall paintings depicting scenes from life stories of Buddha (Jatakas).



The unique windows of Gubyankgyi Temple.



Lawkananda which means "joy of the world" literally was built during the reign of King Anawrahta and believed to have contained a replica of Buddha tooth. The site was surrounded by red brick wall at a higher point of the city, offering a fantastic view of Bagan river scenery. The guide landmark to navigators of Ayeyarwady River is the bulbous shaped dome Bupaya Pagoda at the right bank of the river. Bupaya Pagoda was believed to be built by 3rd King of Pagan Pyusawdi during 168-243 AD. Though small in size, it was noted for its roundness. Unfortunately, the Pagoda was completely destroyed in 1975"s earthquake and the present one fully adorned with gilded gold leaf, was reconstructed with modern materials with lesser adherence to the original.



River of Bagan



A spectacular view of Ayeyarwady River from the site of Lawkanada Pagoda.



The restaurant by the side of River Ayeyarwady provides good food, good environment and a stunning river view of Bagan.



I love their idea of setting those large clay pots along the river bank to decorate the environment of the restaurant. Fabulous!



Boat is one of the main transportation at this area.



Stunning sun-setting at River Ayeyarwady.



We were having our dinner by the side of River Ayyeyarwady when it was just dyed into red by the setting sun. The moment was rather short as it was immediately taken over by darkness.



Htilominlo Temple located north east of Bagan was constructed by Kind Nadaungmya in 1218. The spot was chosen because this was the place where the king was chosen among the five brothers to be the crown prince. The white umbrella erected tilted to his position during the tradition custom ceremony of selecting a heir to the throne. This was how a future king was decided in that period.



Traces of old murals, fragments of original fine plaster carvings and the doorway features of carved reliefs are still visible. The exclusive building with those glazed sandstone decorations at outside walls looks very outstanding.






Htilominlo Temple was the last Myanmar style Buddhist structure built in Bagan. It was 46 meters high in 3 stories with four Buddhas Images on lower and upper floor.



The building and its legend appear most in the sandstone painting.



Ahlodawpyae Temple which means fulfilling of wishes was the first temple built in bricks. The structure was quite simple expressing traces of Pyu culture with a stupa placed on the superstructure. It was constructed in the year 1194 but builder unknown.



The structure of Ahlodawpyee Temple was rather simple. The hall run through east to west while the square formed sanctuary with designed windows opened towards north and south. There was a small pagoda in pyramidal form placed next to it. The interesting parts are the wall paintings and the ink inscriptions with 30 Buddha images and his disciples.



Shwezigon Pagoda, situated at a place named Nyang Oo, was the prototype of Burmese Pogada with circular gold-leaf gilded stupa and small temples and shrines surrounded. It started building by King Anawratha and completed by Kyanzittha in 1102. There is a pillar inscription dedicated by the later in Mon language.









The adorned Golden Pagoda enshrined with a piece of Buddha Gautama's bone and tooth relic.



Some interior features of the temple, the golden ceiling, the door head arch with drawing of suffering world and the attractive designed pillars. Images of Buddha and his 5 disciples during first sermon under the Bodhi tree .



This sacred circle is the spot where people stand and face pagoda to mindfully make a vow or a wish. I did not know what the monk wished but I wished that the world is in peace and all beings be well and happy with no fears. Hope it comes true.



There were many monks, elder or junior, with alms bowl standing along the 4 directions of pagoda. Our local guide Ong wearing very former tradition attire of Burmese, is well verse in English and knowledgeable in Buddhism



Lines of stores supplying Buddhist related items and local handicrafts.



Ladies at village, in regardless of young or old, give their contributions to the families . Young lady demonstrated smoking hand-made cigar to tourists, happy little girl in her mother's hand greeted the visitors with smiling face, and an elderly woman at work.md



Lacquer industries remain as native craft work using manual and natural resources of coloring. It is their custom to make food offering to monks in this light-weight lacquer made alms bowl.



Nature Resort hotel where we stayed was a little bit run-out. They made use of local factors to design the accommodation area providing an unique and cosy atmosphere to foreign visitors.



Nature Resort Hotel appears more like a village house rather than a hotel.






It was Bagan's culture while having a traditional Shan dinner with local sweet rice, traditional puppet show would be introduced. Most places will have all these local made pot to contain water.



Bagan airport is very small with no modern facilities. Every process was done by human labor in manual, but the air stewardess and their costume are exclusively outstanding like the lily flower.

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